All the reasons why sunscreen is your 365-day, non-negotiable, must-use skincare product…
By Adriana Ermter
Considering that “Can you tan with SPF 50?” was one of the top Googled skincare questions last year, we need to talk about sunscreen. Because it’s not about tanning. That’s what spray tans and self-tanners – like Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Hue Face Drops ($50 for 40 mL, available at Sephora) and Clarins Golden Glow Booster for Body ($52 for 30 mL, available at Sephora) – are for. Sunscreen, on the other hand (or legs or shoulders or feet), is for your entire body’s protection. It’s your 365-day, year-round, even-in-the-rain, must-wear skincare product – because underneath every glowing tan is not-so-healthy-looking skin damage.
“While often associated with good health, the ‘glow’ of a tan is the very opposite of healthy; it is evidence of DNA injury to your skin,” affirms the Skin Cancer Foundation on their website. “Tanning damages your skin cells and speeds up visible signs of aging. Worst of all, tanning can lead to skin cancer.” (You can read all about the full history of sunscreen right here)
Fact is, up to 90 per cent of ultraviolet rays – UVA (think A for aging/wrinkles) and UVB (B for burning) – cut straight through clouds, according to Cancer Research UK, while winter’s snow reflects up to 85 per cent of UV rays, doubling your exposure in a single bounce. And those windows in your house, office or car only block UVB rays; the UVA rays penetrate glass, speeding up skin aging and raising your cancer risk. And flying is the worst. According to a 2021 article published by the Kelowna Skin Cancer Clinic, UV exposure increases by about four per cent for every 1,000 feet of altitude. So if you want that window seat’s killer view, taking off without sunscreen is still a hard no.
Which perhaps explains why Mary Mills Barrow and John F. Barrow, authors of the beauty industry’s suncare bible, Sun Protection for Life: Your Guide to a Lifetime of Healthy and Beautiful Skin, crafted the easy-to-remember acronym AWARE. A: avoid unprotected exposure to the sun. W: wear protective clothing. A: apply broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. R: routinely check your body for sunspots, freckles and moles. E: express the need for sun protection with everyone you know.
Because the reality is, skin cancer is the most common cancer in Canada, accounting for nearly one third of all new cancer cases. In 2024, Melanoma Canada estimated 11,300 new cases – a 17 per cent increase from 2023 – while the Canadian Cancer Society states that 65 per cent of melanoma cases in Canada are directly related to UV exposure.
And yet, wacky ideas persist. In a 2024 survey by the Canadian Dermatology Association, 32 per cent of Canucks still think sunscreen isn’t necessary on cloudy days, and 28 per cent of us skip it in winter. Happily, the same survey also shows we’re turning a corner, with 28 per cent now using sunscreen and 19 per cent reporting daily use. Ideally, though, everyone will consistently reach for a broad-spectrum sunscreen, because anything less isn’t cutting it.
5 Burning Facts
Did you know… Just five childhood sunburns can double your melanoma risk, says Melanoma Focus UK. Even two can spike it by 78 per cent, reports an article published by the National Library of Medicine.
Did you know… Your postal code could up your risk. Statistics Canada found that men in high-UV zones face a 22-26 per cent higher melanoma risk. Toronto vs Montreal? 16 per cent higher. Calgary vs Edmonton? Nearly 40 per cent.
Did you know… Sunscreen won’t block your vitamin D. The Skin Cancer Foundation says daily SPF wearers still get enough.
Did you know… Order doesn’t matter. John Hopkins Medicine says any SPF 30+, broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen (such as Avène High Sun Protection Family Face & Body Lotion SPF 50, $48 for 200 mL, available at Shoppers Drug Mart) will work, whether applied before or after other skincare products.
Did you know… Your skin can start burning in just 15 minutes without SPF. According to a 2022 article published by the National Library of Medicine, UV rays peak from 10 am to 4 pm, even on cloudy, rainy days.
6 SPF-Changing Ingredients
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs): Exfoliators like glycolic and lactic acid boost sun sensitivity, raising your risk of UV-triggered irritation and hyperpigmentation.
When to use them: At night. Be diligent with SPF 30+ application in the morning.
Benzoyl peroxide: This acne fighter can break down chemical sunscreens, reducing effectiveness.
When to use them: Best at night. When used in the morning, wait 30 minutes before applying a non-comedogenic, mineral sunscreen, like Tatcha The Silk Sunscreen SPF 50 ($86 for 50 mL, available at Sephora).
Essential oils: Citrus oils such as bergamot, grapefruit or lemon can react with sunlight, causing irritation, burns or discolouration.
When to use them: Only at night. Thoroughly cleanse your face in the morning, following up with an SPF.
Retinol/retinoids: These products speed up cellular turnover and heighten sun sensitivity – even if they contain sunscreen – making you prone to burns.
When to use them: Nighttime. In the morning, use a gentle, two-in-one, non-reactive moisturizer with broad-spectrum sunscreen – like First Aid Beauty Hydrating Milk Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 45 ($48 for 50 mL, available at Sephora).
Salicylic acid (Beta-hydroxy acid): They’re great for unclogging pores but can make skin UV-sensitive.
When to use them: Best at night. If used in the morning, follow up immediately with a moisturizing, non-comedogenic, mineral, broad-spectrum sunscreen for sensitive skin, such as Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Face Liquid Mineral Sunscreen for Sensitive Skin SPF 50+ ($21 for 40 mL, available at Shoppers Drug Mart).
Vitamin C: This is a powerful antioxidant when stable. Unstable versions can oxidize when exposed to light and irritate skin.
When to use them: Any time, but pick airtight, dark-bottle serums and let them absorb fully. Avoid chemical sunscreens; instead, opt for mineral-based ones such as Vichy Capital Soleil Daily Ultra Fluid Mineral Tinted & Dry Touch SPF 60 ($38 for 45 mL, available at Amazon).
Be SPF smart with the Canadian Dermatology Association’s Seven Tips
Step 1: Pick the right formula. Use a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ that protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Acne prone? Products like Avène Cleanance SPF 30 Mattifying Sunscreen Lotion ($46 for 50 mL, available at Shoppers Drug Mart) are crafted specifically for oily skin.
Step 2: Apply enough. A teaspoon for your face and neck; a shot glass for your entire body.
Step 3: Swap in as your face lotion. Get one-and-done results with skincare brands that infuse SPF into face products, such as Bioré UV Aqua Rich Weightless Moisturizer SPF 30 ($20 for 50 mL, available at Shoppers Drug Mart).
Step 4: Timing matters. Apply sunscreen 15 to 30 minutes before heading outside, to ensure it has been absorbed and activated.
Step 5: Reapply. Every two hours whenever you’re outdoors and right after sweating, swimming or towel-drying. Ideal choices are the water-resistant options, like La Roche-Posay Anthelios Ultra Fluid SPF 50+ Invisible Finish Face ($33 for 50 mL) and Body ($33 for 125 mL) Sunscreens. Or pop Blue Lizard’s pocket-sized Sensitive Mineral SPF 50 Sunscreen Stick ($15 for 14 mL) in your bag for easy-access, on-the-go touch ups. (All three products are available at Shoppers Drug Mart.)
Step 6: Don’t ditch it indoors. UVA rays can pass through windows.
Step 7: Make it a habit. Many sunscreens pull double skincare-duty – like e.l.f. Cosmetics Suntouchable! Invisible Sunscreen SPF 35 blurring makeup primer ($19 for 50 mL), Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Sunscreen SPF 50+ Moisturizing Face Serum ($21 for 50 mL) and Vichy Capital Soleil UV+Age Daily SPF 60 anti-Aging Face Lotion ($43 for 40 mL). (All three products are available at Shoppers Drug Mart.)
Three Eye-opening Myths
UV rays can “sunburn” your eyes – so, “much like using SPF daily to protect our skin from sun damage, protecting our eyes from UV exposure should also be a year-round priority,” says Naomi Barber, clinical services director at Specsavers Canada in Vancouver. See more clearly with these debunked myths.
Myth 1: All sunglasses are equal
False. Unless your shades specifically say they block 100 per cent of UVA and UVB rays, they’re just fashion accessories. “Look for sunglasses labelled with UV 400 for the best protection,” recommends Barber, noting that larger, wraparound frames offer more coverage, while darker, polarized lenses reduce glare and filter light.
Myth 2: UV rays won’t lead to eye issues
False. “UVB rays are primarily absorbed by the cornea and lens, and excessive exposure can lead to conditions like an eye sunburn and cataracts,” warns Barber. “UVA rays, on the other hand, penetrate deeper into the eye and are believed to contribute to long-term retinal damage, including age-related macular degeneration.”
Myth 3: Reflected rays aren’t a big deal
False. “UV rays can penetrate clouds and reflect off surfaces like snow, water or pavement even on overcast days and cause damage to our vision,” says Barber.
ADRIANA ERMTER is a Toronto-based lifestyle-magazine pro who has travelled the globe writing about must-spritz fragrances, child poverty, beauty and grooming.
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